630-568-6986
815-900-2275
260-782-3319
224-231-0297
630-560-4178
Quality Installation In Nine Steps:
  1. Discuss and approve the location of carpet seams.
  2. Determine who will move furniture and reach an agreement on any charges for this service.
  3. Decide who will remove and dispose of any existing carpet and padding, and agree on charges.
  4. Understand your warranties- know what is and is not covered- and the procedures for handling a service call.
  5. Vacuum old carpet prior to the arrival of the installer.
  6. Inspect the completed installation with the installer.
  7. Continue operating the ventilation system at normal room temperature for up to 72 hours after installation. If
    possible, open windows to increase the flow of fresh air.
  8. Retain a scrap of the carpet approximately one foot square or larger to patch holes if necessary.
  9. Keep indoor temperature and humidity at levels comfortable for living. Temperatures below 65°F and above 95°F
    can cause the carpet to buckle.
“So, How Long Will My New Carpet Last Anyway?”

This is perhaps the most commonly asked question and frankly, there is no simple answer. Like any textile product, longevity depends on what kind of use your carpet gets, and how you take care of it.

Synthetic pile carpets made of nylon, olefin and polyester simply don’t “wear out” in the same way as the old wool pile carpets did. That is, the fibers never break off and wear away leaving only the carpet backing showing.

Instead, synthetic carpets usually change in appearance over time, especially in areas of high usage. The change occurs slowly, and is caused by such things as fine airborne soil, air pollution, tracked-in dirt, stains, and heavy foot traffic. They collect on the surface of the carpet fibers and change the way the light reflects off of it, causing the carpet to look dull and shabby and no longer new.

Five Ways to Keeping Your Carpet Looking New Longer
  1. Buy the right carpet- “If you don’t know carpet, know you carpet dealer”

    Purchase your carpet from a local dealer with a good reputation. Purchase only first quality carpet. Don’t be
    misled by bargain prices on irregulars. A number of problems could arise. For example, the backing could
    separate and cause the seams to open up.

    Purchase your installation and your carpet from the same dealer. This gives you one single responsible source to
    go to for answers on your questions and for help with any problems.

  2. Vacuum your carpet regularly

    Vacuum traffic lanes and heavily used areas daily. Make five to seven passes of the vacuum. All other areas
    should be done twice a week, making three passes with the vacuum.

    For cut-pile and most woven carpets, use a vacuum cleaner with a beater bar. The beater bar agitates the pile
    and sets up vibrations that dislodge soil. Make sure the beater bar comes in contact with the carpet but not so
    much as to slow down the motor.

    For delicate loop pile and sisal textures, use suction only. Lift the beater bar so that it does not come in
    contact with the carpet. This will prevent damaging the loops.

    Keep your vacuum cleaner in good condition. Inspect the belt to make sure the beater bar is rotating properly
    before each use. Empty the soil bag when it is half full to maintain efficiency.

  3. Remove spills and spots right away

    Remember that time makes the difference between a spot and a stain, so act immediately. As soon as a liquid
    spill occurs, absorb as much liquid as possible with a clean white terry cloth or paper towel. Use a blotting
    action, working from the outside in. Never rub or scrub; it will cause fuzzing.

    In the event you spill liquid with solids, pick up or remove as much of the solid
    before you begin to blot. Use a spatula or large spoon to scrape the solid off the
    surface of the carpet.

    After blotting, use a recommended cleaning agent if necessary, and carefully follow
    the directions.

  4. Professionally clean your carpet

    Oily soil from cooking vapors, air pollution and tracked-in dirt build up a residue on the surface of your
    carpet and cause it to look dull and matted. There are a number of excellent commercial cleaning methods you can
    use, from dry cleaning to hot-water extraction.

    If your carpet dealer doesn’t offer professional cleaning, ask him to recommend the proper cleaning method for
    your carpet.

    If your carpet has a warranty from a fiber manufacturer such as DuPont, Solutia, Allied or 3M, consult their 300
    phone number or website for recommended cleaning procedures. Using a cleaning method other than those approved
    by the manufacturer may void the warranty.

  5. Protect your investment

    Close your shades or drapes to avoid direct sunlight on your floor. Carpet dyes have never been better, but all
    textiles fade when exposed to UV sunlight.

    Change filters in your heating and air conditioning system regularly. It’s healthier for your family and it
    keeps your entire house cleaner, including your carpet.

    Place a walk-off mat at the entrances to your home so that soil is left outside rather than tracked in over your
    carpet. Rearrange your furniture periodically to change the traffic flow and allow the carpet to wear more
    evenly.

A Brief History of Carpet

Man has been using carpet to add warmth and comfort to his dwellings for more than 2,500 years.

With the discovery of hand weaving, men were able to create a vast array of carpet types, freeing their imaginations to design figures and symbols of all sorts.

The oldest known carpet is the “Pazyryk”. This intricately patterned, beautiful knotted-pile rug was created by Armenian craftsmen during the 4th or 5th Century BC and can be seen today at the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia.

Many carpets that were hand-woven over the past 300 years have transcended the boundaries of their craft and have become an art form that is part of many museum collections.

It was the Industrial Revolution that led the way to the development of machine-made fabrics, and ultimately carpet, with such inventions as the “Spinning Jenny”, which pun yarn, in 1767. Later, in 1801 Joseph-Marie Jacquard invented an automatic loom that used punch cards. This allowed for complex patterns to be woven much faster than was possible by human hands.

(It is fascinating to discover that Jacquard’s 18th Century invention of punch cards was later used to create the first computer of the 20th Century. SO his invention was pivotal not only to the Industrial Revolution but also to the modern technological one.)

But it wasn’t until 1904 that a Dalton, Georgia farm girl named Catherine Evans remembered an heirloom bedspread that had been in her family from Colonial days. She worked out a stitch that locked into the fabric and, once snipped, left a small tuft. Fittingly, she called the stitch “tufting” because each stitch resembled a tiny tuft of grass.

Soon families were sitting on farm porches stitching spreads to sell from their front yard clotheslines. The tiny cottage industry soon captured the attention of Singer Sewing Machine Company. Singer wasted no time in developing a twelve-foot wide sewing machine with 1,500 needles to make bedspreads.

In the meantime, a few Georgia pioneer carpet makers wondered if the new machine could be used to produce carpet. They discovered, to their amazement, that they could make forty feet of carpet per minute; ten times faster than with the old traditional carpet weaving looms.

The first carpets were made of wool. Nylon fiber, which was invented in 1939 by DuPont chemist Dr. Wallace H. Carothers, eventually replaced wool as the standard carpet pile.

By the late 1950’s, tufted nylon carpet could be purchased for prices within the reach of every homeowner.

“What About Carpet Installation? Will I See My Carpet Seams?”

Most carpets manufactured today are produced in 12-foot widths and require seaming. Usually, seams are best places perpendicular to the primary natural light source in the room, to minimize their visibility. Visibility of seams will vary with different carpet textures, densities, and lighting conditions. It’s common for some seams to peak slightly after installation. Time and normal traffic will usually correct this. Carpet seams, like seams in any textile, will not be visible.

“What Will Carpet Cushion Do for Me?”

Carpet cushion, sometimes called padding, performs two functions: to make your carpet feel good when you walk on it, and to help your carpet maintain its original appearance over time. Carpet cushion is like the shock absorbers on your car. It’s there to protect your investment by absorbing the pounding of foot traffic.

You can select a firmer or softer feel depending on the type of carpet you are installing and your preference as to the feel underfoot. For thicker, plush cut-pile carpet, a cushion up to 1/2″ thick is recommended. For Berbers or lower profile carpets, thinner cushion, not more thank 3/8″ thick, will provide maximum performance. You can choose from several types of cushion. The most common are sponge rubber, bonded polyurethane foam, prime polyurethane foam, and fiber.

Cleaning Products For Carpet

Protect your investment by using the recommended cleaning products on your new carpet. Your dealer will usually have these products in stock.

The Nature of Wood

Wood’s hygroscopic nature requires that special care be taken by our skilled craftsmen. If the humidity is too high, it may not be possible to properly install the floor. High humidity causes the wood to absorb moisture, which causes expansion of the boards and can lead to “cupping” or raised edges. Even after the floor is installed, a better and smoother finished is obtained with our state-of-the-art sanding machines when the floor and the atmosphere both are dry.

Your Wood Floor’s Appearance

The beauty of wood, like all things in nature, is derived from the unpredictable quality of each tree and board. Every board has its own individual grain. As a result, each piece takes stain differently- sometimes lighter, sometimes darker- making the color of individual boards look different from the surrounding boards. Such individual differences are not defects. They create the character that makes each floor unique. Also, depending on the temperature and humidity conditions at the time of application, the gloss level on your new floor may vary from the showroom sample.

Our Installation Procedures Ensure Lasting Quality

Because it is frequently beyond the control of your builder to reduce the moisture content of your new home to a safe level in a short period of time, the proper installation and finishing of your hardwood flooring may delay the completion of your new home. At FCA, all of the craftsmen involved with the installation of your new floor take the precaution of making regular moisture meter readings on both the hardwood floor strips and the decking. They may recommend postponing the installation or finishing of your floor if the readings are too high or too low.

Hardwood Expands and Contracts

In spite of everyone’s best efforts, as a hygroscopic material, it is normal for wood to expand and contract even after you move into your new home. It is normal for wood to swell when it absorbs moisture. Also, it is normal for wood to shrink when it loses moisture. Due to the inevitable expansion and contraction in all floors, spaces must be left along the wall so that the floor has room to move. For this reason, quarter round molding is used along the walls. Also, as the strips in a hardwood floor shrink, the floor will begin to show “hairline cracks” between the strips. Such cracks are considered normal if they close up during the non-heating, highly humid months of summer and are not wider than the thickness of a dime during the very dry months of winter.

Humidify During the Winter

To minimize shrinkage or “hairline cracks” in the winter introduce moisture into the home by using a humidifier.

Dehumidify During the Summer

Conversely, in the summer, you may notice “cupping” or raised edges cause by high humidity in your home. To help avoid this normal swelling process, reduce humidity by using your air conditioning during the humid months. For even more control, operate a dehumidifier in

Protect Your New Hardwood Floor

Use protective mats in front of sinks and doors leading to the outside. Put fabric glides on the legs of your furniture; they allow furniture to be moved easily without scuffing the floor. Clean the glides regularly since grit can become embedded in them. Avoid casters made of hard materials like metal or hard plastic.

Never drag or push heavy chairs, furniture or appliances over your wood floor. High-healed shoes will leave permanent dents in most hardwood floors. Dogs and other pets can damage nearly all finishes with their toenails and claws.

Ultraviolet light will cause your hardwood floor to change color. To avoid uneven appearance, move area rugs occasionally and drape or shade large windows.

Thank You for Your Business

Because we want you to be a satisfied customer, it’s important that you have good information and know what to expect with your new hardwood floor.

It’s hard to put your finger on it, but there’s something about a real hardwood floor that just brings a room together. All the beautiful things that make up your home take on a warmer glow and new elegance. It’s not hard to imagine a hardwood floor as the foundation of your personal sanctuary- a calming influence far away from such worldly concerns as early morning meetings, traffic jams and demanding people.

While your new floor won’t be a solution for the problems of your everyday life, there is one thing we can say with certainty. A custom hardwood floor will make just about anything in your room look better.

Like anything made from fine wood, there is a great deal of craftsmanship that goes into producing the finished product. Every floor has its own distinctive character; it is like no other.

Another important characteristic to remember is that wood is hygroscopic material. That means that when it is exposed to varying temperatures and humidity, wood releases or absorbs moisture until it is in equilibrium with the surrounding atmosphere.

Caring for Hardwood Flooring

Custom hardwood floors, when properly finished, are the easiest of all floor surfaces to keep clean and looking good year after year. Follow these guidelines:

Routinely: Dust mop, sweep or vacuum at least twice a week to keep grit and dust free.

Spills: Soak up and blot spills promptly. It is safe to wipe with a barely damp cloth and then towel-dry.

Restoration: Know the brand of flooring and the type of finish on your floor before applying any cleaning products. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for proper care or consult a floor-finishing specialist.

Custom Finished Polyurethane Floors: Spot clean with PolyCare™ and PolyCare Scuff Remover™, available at any FCA store.

Do Not: Wet mop because standing water can cause wood to swell and buckle. Also, do not use: Murphy’s Oil Soap™, Fantastic™, Formula 409™, dish washing detergents, powdered all-purpose cleaners, paste wax, Endust™, Pledge™, Future™, Mop-N-Glow™, Brite™, or any similar products. Above all, never use a self-polishing acrylic wax made for sheet vinyl on a wood floor. These products make wood slippery and dull, especially if coated with a polyurethane finish.

Cleaning Products For Hardwood Floors

Protect your investment by using the recommended cleaning, maintenance and restorative products on your new flooring. Your dealer will usually have these products in stock.

Benefits

Manufacturers have refined laminate to resist many common types of wear such as indentations, scratches, stains, burns and fading. Laminate also comes with many advantages for the consumer, several of which are substantiated by a 2006 Consumer Report® which stated that, “laminates typically lasted twice as long as solid-wood flooring before their surface began showing wear.”

Laminate is:

  • Highly durable
  • Ideal for high traffic areas
  • Resistant to moisture-related shrinkage and swelling
  • Great for families with children & pets
  • Simple to maintain and clean
  • Easy to install and pull up if necessary
  • Relatively inexpensive compared to natural hardwood and stone
  • Easy to replace if irreparably damaged
  • Ideal for homeowners with allergies
Care and Maintenance

Its quick and simple upkeep is a key benefit of laminate. As with any flooring product, it is important to know proper cleaning practices.

Do:

Use cleaning products recommended by the manufacturer
Keep the floor free of dirt and moisture
Use a dry mop, vacuum, broom or damp cloth to clean
Use alcohol or acetone to treat tough stains or stuck objects
Use gentle scraping for stuck objects like tar, gum or wax
Carry heavy furniture across it
Place doormats by entryways to reduce tracked-in dirt and moisture
Use felt pads under any furniture that will sit on the laminate floor.

Don’t:
Saturate the surface with water
Use soap, abrasive detergents or scouring pads like steel wool
Wax, polish, sand or resurface it
Use a vacuum with a beater brush
Drag heavy furniture across it
Use nylon pads on the feet of your furniture; it will react negatively with the aluminum oxide in the surface layer.

Warranty Information

Good

This warranty covers up to 10 years of use from the date of purchase provided that the laminate is free from manufacturing defects and will not wear through, fade or stain under normal residential use.

Better

This warranty covers up to 15 years of use from the date of purchase, provided that the laminate flooring is free from manufacturing defects and will not wear through, fade, stain and will resist moisture under normal residential use.

Best

This warranty covers up to 25 years of use from the date of purchase, provided that the laminate flooring is free from manufacturing defects and will not wear through, fade, stain and will resist moisture under normal residential use.

Warranty Claim Service

If your laminate floor sustains significant damage during the specified coverage time defined by its warranty, contact the store at which you purchased the laminate to file a claim. Please have your receipt or order number available to ensure an efficient service process. After your claim has been filed, an inspection will be scheduled to evaluate the issue on site and determine the appropriate course of action to repair the damage.

Limited Warranty Exclusions and Conditions

Each warranty applies only to the original purchaser and the original installation site; it is not transferable. They only apply only to products installed indoors, and cover only topical moisture resulting from normal household use; for example, a small liquid spill, dripping or wet shoes. The warranties do not cover conditions or defects caused by improper installation, use of improper adhesives, inadequate sub-flooring or improper sub-floor preparation, damage caused by flooding or standing liquids, planks that have been installed with obvious visual defects or variations of color, shade or texture, or defects caused by improper care and maintenance. Other exclusions may apply.

Components and Layers

While each manufacturer may add certain features to make its laminate unique, the basic laminate plank is composed of four layers of materials, which are fused together using either the direct pressure (DP) or high pressure (HP) method.

  • Wearlayer – is a tough clear melamine layer with aluminum oxide particles. Using heat and pressure the wearlayer becomes an incredibly hard and durable finish. The resin-filled wearlayer is so dense it becomes extremely difficult to stain, scratch, or burn.
  • Print Film – which is also called the decorative layer gives the floor the appearance of a real hardwood or tile. Some manufacturers, have been able to replicate the old wood floors found only in some old historical buildings.
  • Kraft Paper – is a heavy weight paper which is used as a shock absorbent. it can reduce the chance of any chipping or denting.
  • T&G Edges – are the actual interlocking method for assuring a tight fit for each plank.
  • Core – generally made from high-density fiber board (HDF), particle board, or plastic, the core adds impact resistance, and forms the tongue and groove locking system. Melamine plastic resins are also impregnated in the core by some of the manufacturers to improve the moisture resistance of the core.
  • Backing – is usually a melamine plastic layer used to give additional structural stability and added moisture protection to the planks.
  • Melamine – is a plastic-type resin used throughout the construction process to add durability, and stability to the laminated planks
“What type of subfloor can I put laminate over?”

Since laminate is a “floating floor”, meaning it does not need to be stapled or nailed to the subfloor, it can be installed over most surfaces, except carpet.

“Where can I use laminate in my home?”

Laminate can be used on any level of a home, but it is not ideal for bathrooms or other areas that may get a lot of moisture.

“How many years will my laminate floor last?”

Typically a laminate floor will last 15 to 30 years, however it is best to consult the manufacturer for your product’s specific warranty information.

“Is laminate easy to install?”

Since the introduction of glueless installation, putting laminate in your home has never been easier. Most laminate planks come with a tongue and groove locking system that allows planks to simply click together. However, the process does require a lot of patience and precision.

“How soon after installation can I walk on my new laminate floor?”

Laminate is ready for use immediately after installation, but it is very important to acclimate it before installation. That means allowing the product to sit for 24-72 hours prior to installation in the room where it will be installed so it can adjust to the humidity and temperature of the room. If this is not done, the planks may warp or pull apart after installation.

Benefits of Glazed Ceramic Tile

Ceramic tile is a practical, versatile and functional choice for floors, walls or countertops. Its extensive range of colors, textures, sizes and styles will allow you to create a living space that is a true reflection of your family’s lifestyle and your personal taste.

Durable:

Properly installed ceramic tile will outperform and outlast nearly any other interior surface product made for floors or walls.

Scratch Resistant:

Grade III and Grade IV glazed ceramic tiles are extremely resistant to things that scratch other floors.

Fire Resistant:

Ceramic tile doesn’t burn or emit toxic fumes. Even a lighted cigarette will not do any damage when dropped on a ceramic tile floor. Hot kitchen pans will not scorch or melt the surface of glazed ceramic tile.

Water Resistant:

Most glazed ceramic tile has a dense body that is virtually unaffected by the accumulation of moisture. This means that spills from common liquids found in a kitchen can be mopped up and leave no trace or residue.

Fade Resistant:

Glazed ceramic tile is the most resistant of all interior surfaces to sunlight and UV degradation.

Easy to Clean:

Glazed ceramic tile resists stains, odors, and dirt and can be cleaned with a damp mop and common household cleaners.

Environmentally Friendly:

Ceramic tile is manufactured using mostly natural materials.

P.E.I Wear Ratings – The Porcelain Enamel Institute
  • Group I: – Only wall tile fall into this group
  • Group II: – Can be used for walls and floors-only light duty use such as bathrooms
  • Group III: – Recommended for all residential areas
  • Group IV: – Suitable for all residential and light duty commercial
  • Group V: – Recommended for commercial use- for wet areas where safety is a concern, such as in food service areas- exterior areas, shopping malls, swimming pools, etc.
Technical Stuff

Ceramic tile is a natural product made up of a number of naturally-occurring minerals, and water. Most tile for home use is made by the pressed-dust method, which presses the clay into a mold, that forms the body of the tile. The wall tile, mosaic tile, and floor tile produced by this process can be fired with our without glaze.

Glaze: A thin ceramic coating, or “glaze,” is applied to the surface, and then fired to give the tile its color and finish. Nearly all modern floor tiles are decorated with a glaze.

Ceramic Tile Thickness: Historically, thickness and hardness determined the use of a tile. Stove tiles, used to retain heat, were often several inches thick. Medieval floor tiles were usually one inch thick; encaustic tiles of the Victorian ear tended to be slightly thinner. Today’s floor tiles are thinner yet, and wall tiles are the thinnest, as a result of modern manufacturing methods.

Tile Density and Moisture Absorption: As its density increases, a tile becomes stronger and it absorbs less moisture. Tile density and moisture absorption are important for certain applications. For example:

  • Non-Vitreous Tiles – Tiles that absorb from 3% to 7% or more moisture are suited only for indoor use.
  • Vitreous Tiles – Tiles that absorb less than 3% moisture can be used for exterior applications where there are no freeze/thaw conditions.
  • Impervious Tiles – Tiles that have less than 0.5% moisture are related “frost proof” and may be used in nearly all exterior applications. Porcelain tiles, for example are Impervious Tiles, and recent technology has made this category more decorative and price competitive.

White Body Tile versus Red Body Tile: The color of the body is determined by the color of the clay that is available to the manufacturer. The quality of the tile is generally not related to the color of the body.

Caution: Ceramic tile flooring, like other types of smooth floors, can become slippery when wet. Allow time for the floor to dry after washing. Immediately wipe up wet areas from spills or wet feet.

A Brief History of Ceramic Tile

Historically, the use of ceramic floor tiles goes back to fourth millennium BC. It was the Romans who introduced tile making in Western Europe. That art, however, was all but lost until the Mid-19th Century when Herbert Minton of Stoke-on-Trent, England, revived the lost art of Roman tile making.

English tile making was costly, time-consuming process in which layers of color were built up on the surface of the tile, one by one. The high cost of English imported tiles meant that only wealthy Americans could afford them. The English near monopoly actually stimulated the growth of the U.S. tile industry in the 1870’s.

During the 20th Century, American title makers gradually developed modern methods of production, with sophisticated machinery, new materials and decorating techniques. In the years following World War II, there were many advances in the industry. Commercially manufactured dust-pressed tiles, which had previously required more than 70 hours just to fire in the kiln, could be made in less than two hour from the raw material stage to finished tiles, boxed and ready to ship.

The new process ensured that the tiles were cut to a uniform thickness and size. The dried, unglazed tiles were sprayed with colored glaze as conveyors carried the tiles into the tunnel kilns. Such changes and developments in the production of floor tile brought forth a wide range of shapes and sizes, along with new colors, glazes and decorating techniques.

These new materials were not only cheaper, but they were not as fragile either. And they were lighter in weight and thinner, thus easier to transport and install.

If you have never used ceramic tile before or it has been a long time since you have done so, you will be amazed at the wide selection of colors, sizes, shapes and new textures that are now available.

Ten Steps to Ensure Satisfaction With Your Ceramic Tile Installation

Installation of ceramic tile requires a properly trained craftsman. Not all installers are equally skilled. Here is where your dealer serves an important function by matching the skills of your installer to the requirements of your job and the unique characteristics of the tile you have chosen.

It is important to rely on your dealer’s experience and judgment regarding installation. That’s why it’s smart to buy your tile and installation from the same dealer. This gives you a single responsible place to bring any questions or problems.

  1. Evaluate the condition of existing sub-floor and determine what measures will be needed to prepare the floor or walls for installation of the new ceramic.
  2. Decide who will remove and dispose of any existing tile or discard building products and do a final clean up after installation.
  3. Determine who will disconnect and reconnect fixtures and appliances and move furniture. Decide who will install protection to existing walls and nearby floors.
  4. Discuss and approve the exact tile installation pattern of your new floor or walls.
  5. Discuss and approve the location and type of base trim, transition strips and the method of meeting door jambs.
  6. Reach an agreement before the installation gets started for any additional service charges.
  7. Understand warranties and procedures for handling a service call.
  8. Inspect and approve the completed installation with the installer. Retain unused tile for future repairs if necessary.
  9. Shortly after installation, and once the tiles have been cleaned and dried thoroughly; make arrangements to seal the grout joints with a silicone sealer to help reduce future maintenance.
  10. Continue operating the ventilation system at normal room temperature for up to 72 hours after installation. If possible, open windows to increase the flow of fresh air.
Caring For Glazed Ceramic Tile

Glazed ceramic tile usually requires less maintenance then most other types of residential floors. It never needs wax or polish to bring back its shine. Just be sure to keep sand and grit off the tile, because they can scratch the glazing over a period of time. For general tile floor care, follow these steps:

  • Sweep or vacuum glazed tile regularly.
  • Wash regularly with a diluted mild detergent to remove dirt and grit.
  • Most common household detergents, such as Mr. Clean™ or Spic & Span™ as well as many others may be used.\
  • After cleaning with a mild detergent, rinse thoroughly with clean, warm water to remove any residue. If needed, wipe dry with a clean towel to remove any remaining film.
  • For soft water situations, you may need to use an all purpose cleaner, such as Fantastic™ or Top Job™. Apply to the floor, let stand 3-5 minutes then wipe with a sponge and rinse well.
  • Re-seal the gout joints twice a year to ensure stain protection.
  • Do Not Use oil-based or ammonia –based cleaners as they may discolor your grout.
Cleaning Products For Ceramic Tile

Protect your investment by using only recommended cleaning products. Your dealer will usually have these products in stock.